Fabric Structure Analysis

Satin Weave  & Sateen Weave

v  Satin or Sateen weaves constitute one of the most valuable classes of fundamental weaves, and are used in almost every branch of weaving and with yarns of every material.

v  They are used in woolen clothes to produce doe-skins, in cotton clothes for the production of sateen &satinettes, and in silk goods for satins.

v  One of the largest uses of satin weaves is in the production of linen damasks, in which warp-flush and filling-flush satins are combined to produce figured table clothes, napkins, etc. 

v  They are also largely used as ground weaves for spotted and figured clothes and are often combined to form check and stripe effect in various fabrics.

                         

                                                        Satin Weave

Sateen Weave                                      

v  This is the third basic weave, in which the interlacing points are arranged in a similar way to twill weaves but without showing the twill line.

v  The satin weave is a warp face weave and the sateen is a filling face weave.

v  Sateens are sometimes called filling satins weave.

Base for satin Weaves

The order in which the ends are raised or lowered when forming a satin weave is generally indicated by a series of figures, in which each figure represents an end, while its position in the series indicates the pick on which it is moved. Thus referring to the 5-end satin the ends would be said to be lowered in 1, 4, 2, 5, 3 order.

§  1 being the first number shows that the first end is lowered on the first pick.

§  4 being the second number, a show that the fourth end is lowered on the second pick.

§  2 being the third number, shows that the second end is lowered on the third pick.

§  5 being the fourth number , shows that the fifth end is lowered on the fourth pick

§  3 being the fifth number, shows that the third end is lowered on the fifth pick.

v  Considering the order of moving the ends, as shown in figure on each successive pick, the third end (counting from left to right) from the one previously lowered is down.

v  Thus on the first pick, the first end is down; on the second pick, the third end from that, or the fourth is down; on the next pick, the third end from the fourth, or the second, is down; and so on for the five picks that complete one repeat of the weave.

Types of Satin

                  v  Satin is a silky, often shiny fabric that has been used for centuries.

v  Originating in China, satin has become a staple fabric of wedding garments in many countries around the world.

v  This soft, luxurious fabric is also used in shirts and blouses, lingerie, fine upholstery and draperies for the home.

v  Made from small filament yarns, satin fabric gets it luster from the manner in which it is constructed.

v  The vertical yarns of satin are floated over four horizontal yarns, giving it a smooth texture and sheen.

                       Duchess, antique, slipper and crepe back are the four types of satin used in the fashion    industry.

Duchess satin

§  Duchess satin is a type of satin with a high yarn count.

§  The fine yarns in this fabric give it a firmer body than other types of satin. For this reason, it is commonly used in wedding gowns.

§  This fabric will give bridal gowns a stiff shape without adding a lot of weight to the garment.

§  Synthetic fibers can be used to achieve the density of this fabric, but silk is also used in the more expensive pieces.

Antique satin

§  Antique satin is a textured satin that is typically glossy on one side and dull on the other side.

§  This fabric is woven with yarns of varied thickness, and often includes acetate, silk or rayon.

§  Cotton fibers are used in the weft to give the fabric the dull texture on its back. Antique satin is often used in apparel such as dresses, suits or shirts.

Slipper satin

§  Slipper satin is a type of satin fabric that has a flat, matte finish.

§  This satin is very heavy and stiff, and much more durable that the other types of satin.

§  For this reason, slipper satin is typically used in footwear such as ballet slippers.

 

Crepe back satin

§  Crepe back satin is made with high-twisted yarns running horizontal in the fabric.

§  The smoother, low-twisted yarns are also used, giving the fabric a crepe effect.

§  This type of satin can be reversible, making it desirable for use in fashion.

§  Crepe back satin works well in various garments because of its softness and versatility.

Characteristics of Satin Weave

     v  Satin is glossy, smooth and sleek. It has one shiny side and one dull side.

     v  The characteristic sheen is created when the woven material is run through hot cylinders.

     v  The floating weft threads make it slick and luxurious but that also makes it challenging to tailor.

     v  It runs away on the sewing table and sewing machine feet lose their grip.

     v  Cut edges fray quickly and release a lot of threads.

Uses and Durability

 v  While satin is used for delicate, it is also strong enough for athletic apparel like basketball shorts, track jackets and ballet shoes.

 v  Gown makers, particularly in the bridal industry, favor satin for its glossy finish and the fluid grace with which it hangs in pleats and necklines.

 v  Everyday satin garments like shirts, blouses and scarves are often machined washable in the delicate cycle.

References:

  v  http:// www.wickedmusestudio.wordpress.com

  v  http:// www. Alibaba.com

  v  http:// www.textilelearner.blogspot.com

  v Lord P.R, Conversion of yarn to Fabric, Merrow publishing Co. Ltd, 1973.